For Africa’s textile and apparel industry, preferential access to international markets has long been viewed as an important pathway to export growth. But market access, by itself, does not guarantee industrial development.

As Africa looks towards AGOA 2028, an important question deserves greater attention:

How can African countries turn preferential market access into competitive, productive and sustainable textile and apparel industries?

The African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) has provided eligible sub-Saharan African countries with preferential access to the United States market, creating opportunities for exports and investment across several sectors, including textiles and apparel.

However, the experience of African textile and apparel producers highlights a broader challenge. Having access to a market is very different from having the capacity to compete in that market.

From access to competitiveness

A competitive textile and apparel industry requires much more than favourable tariff treatment.

African producers must contend with challenges across the entire value chain—from cotton production and fibre processing to spinning, weaving, dyeing, garment manufacturing, logistics and access to finance.

Where these capabilities are weak or fragmented, preferential market access can remain an opportunity that domestic firms are unable to fully capture.

This makes the conversation around AGOA 2028 particularly important.

The focus should not only be on whether market preferences will continue, but on what African countries can do to ensure that their industries are positioned to take advantage of them.

Building stronger African value chains

One of the biggest opportunities lies in strengthening regional value chains.

Africa has significant cotton-producing countries, growing manufacturing capabilities and a large consumer market. Yet these resources and capabilities are often poorly connected.

Cotton may be produced in one country, processed elsewhere, while fabrics, garments and other higher-value products are imported from outside the continent.

A more integrated approach could allow African countries to capture greater value within the continent.

This means strengthening connections between:

• Cotton farmers and textile manufacturers;
• Textile mills and garment producers;
• Small and medium-sized enterprises and larger manufacturers;
• Producers and export markets; and
• National industries and regional value chains under the AfCFTA.

The competitiveness question

The AGOA discussion also presents an opportunity to look beyond trade preferences and examine the fundamentals of competitiveness.

African textile and apparel producers need reliable energy, efficient transport systems, access to finance, appropriate skills, modern technology and predictable trade and investment policies.

Standards and certification are equally important. International buyers increasingly require suppliers to meet specific quality, environmental, labour and traceability requirements.

If African producers are to compete successfully in the US and other international markets, these issues must form part of the industrial strategy.

What should AGOA 2028 mean for Africa?

The conversation around AGOA 2028 should therefore extend beyond preferential access.

The more strategic question is how market opportunities can be connected to industrial policy, investment and value addition.

Rather than viewing AGOA simply as an export preference, African countries can consider how it fits within broader efforts to develop productive capacity and strengthen their participation in global value chains.

This also requires stronger collaboration between governments, businesses, financial institutions, development partners, researchers and industry associations.

The conversation continues

With 2028 approaching, there is a need for practical discussion about what African textile and apparel industries need to become more competitive, and how trade policy can support that transformation.

The Africa Cotton, Textiles & Apparel Centre will convene stakeholders for a webinar examining these issues under the theme:

AGOA 2028: Turning Market Access into Competitive African Textile and Apparel Industries

📅 18 September 2026
⏰ 2:30 PM WAT
💻 Microsoft Teams

The webinar will provide an opportunity to examine the future of AGOA, Africa’s textile and apparel export potential, and the steps required to turn market access into meaningful industrial development.

Join the conversation: Register for the Webinar